Chef Arturo Rivera Martínez, freshly adorned with a coveted Michelin star for his culinary mastery, remains dedicated to his craft at Mexico City’s Tacos El Califa de León. In this modest 10-foot by 10-foot establishment, Rivera Martínez continues to do what he’s done for two decades: skillfully sear meat over an intensely hot grill.
Despite the prestigious accolade, Rivera Martínez opts not to don the formal chef’s jacket presented by Michelin representatives. In the compact confines of his taco stand, where the heat is as integral to the cooking process as the ingredients themselves, simplicity reigns supreme.
At Tacos El Califa de León, located in the vibrant San Rafael neighborhood, the menu consists solely of four varieties of tacos, each showcasing cuts of meat sourced from around a cow’s rib, loin, or fore shank.
“The secret lies in the simplicity of our tacos. It’s just a tortilla, red or green sauce, and top-quality meat,” explains Rivera Martínez, whose beverage preference with his creations is surprisingly straightforward: “I like Coke.”
Amidst the array of upscale dining establishments recognized by Michelin, El Califa de León stands out as the sole taco stand among the honored Mexican restaurants. Occupying a mere 100 square feet, the eatery is a testament to tradition, having operated with unwavering consistency since its inception in 1968.
Rivera Martínez’s culinary routine remains unchanged. With precision, he grills thinly sliced filets of beef, seasons them with salt and lime, and pairs them with freshly rolled tortillas, expertly cooked to perfection.
The establishment’s enduring appeal lies not only in its culinary offerings but also in its steadfast adherence to tradition. Amidst shifting trends and modernizations, Tacos El Califa de León remains a beacon of authenticity, drawing loyal patrons who appreciate its unwavering commitment to quality.
As the restaurant navigates challenges such as street vendors encroaching on its space, owner Mario Hernández Alonso remains resolute in preserving the essence of El Califa de León. For him, maintaining the status quo is not only a matter of principle but a testament to the enduring legacy of a culinary institution deeply rooted in Mexican tradition.
